The wiki-page says the case has been welded shut, so there simply is no magical, easy way of opening it up. You will have to use a vice or similar to squeeze it until the welds break, or use something like a dremel to cut it open.
2 Likes
For future reference for people reading this thread,
Unless the person opening it is certified to handle mains voltage (electrician etc), do not not open this device. This device contains no user serviceable parts on the inside (according to OEM documentation). It is sealed closed by the manufacturer for safety. Opening it up will expose the user to lethal mains voltages (110-230V) from the unenclosed power supply. Do not open the device.
In my country the device is currently €30.00 new and less 2nd hand. Buying parts to fix the device will cost more and still won't be guaranteed to fix it. If you just want to return to an OEM experience, that is the best course of action.
1 Like
Do you not understand I am open needing to use the serial connections, then the case is going back on
The fact that they are no serviceable parts is irrelevant
They were talking about the stuff you need to buy to fix the device, not about there being serviceable parts inside. You need an adapter to use the serial (ie. UART) connection, a soldering iron to solder pins to the device and superglue to glue the case back together, at the minimum.
1 Like
Unless the person opening it is certified to handle mains voltage (electrician etc), do not not open this device. This device contains no user serviceable parts on the inside (according to OEM documentation). It is sealed closed by the manufacturer for safety. Opening it up will expose the user to lethal mains voltages (110-230V) from the unenclosed power supply. Do not open the device.
From reading the thread above, it's important to understand and re-emphasize that this is 3rd party firmware not supported by the OEM. Opening the device will void your warranty. Any and all actions you undertake with the device and the resulting consequences (voiding warranty, destruction, injuries etc) are ultimately your own legal responsibility. There is nothing to accept/reject about this, its just reality.
If you want to continue, understand everyone is a a regular person from the internet just like you, volunteering their free time and advice. Finding the right answer could take days of reading or weeks of waiting for a reply.
It sounds like you used the "Force" option when doing an OpenWrt sysupgrade, which as it says always carries a risk of bricking a device as using force bypasses firmware checks allowing any old junk to be written over the firmware (e.g. mistakenly sysupgrading the wrong file).
To recover the flash using serial console requires a lot of work, patience, reading through the forums. You need to understand the UART pinout, get a proper FTDI 3.3v cable. If you incorrectly use u-boot serial console TFTP recovery you can overwrite and corrupt your boot loader and be unable to use the serial console. My suggestion is to not try any uboot commands from other unrelated threads, just ones recommended by other RE200 users (e.g. check the original RE200 support thread). Even then it might still not work and wreck your bootloader due to accidents, and the only way to recover it would be reflashing it with an SPI programmer.
Just an FYI to be very cautious.
1 Like
From reading the thread above, it's important to understand and re-emphasize that this is 3rd party firmware not supported by the OEM. Opening the device will void your warranty
it void anyway because I was running openwrt, read the title, this is to go back to stock
I have experiance with TFTP as well
It is because of bad documentanion I am in this mess
You need to understand the UART pinout, get a proper FTDI 3.3v cable
Its 4 pins, Vcc,RX,TX,GND
RX goes to TX
TX goes to RX
If you just want to return to an OEM experience, that is the best course of action.
I want a device that is not bricked
you came from stock, redoing the same thing again shouldn't be an issue.
I was told this, and it was an issue
It sounds like you used the "Force" option when doing an OpenWrt sysupgrade, which as it says always carries a risk of bricking a device as using force bypasses firmware checks allowing any old junk to be written over the firmware (e.g. mistakenly sysupgrading the wrong file).
I didn't
From what I think happened, the ethernet cable became disconnected during the tranfer of firmware
There's a lot of information being passed in this thread...
And we've now learned this device has AC power on the inside. This explains why it would be sealed like that.
@Kcajminer2312 - regardless if you're upset or not at this point, do not proceed unless you understand what you're doing. 
@moderators - there's a lot being discussed in this thread aside from the single original question posited in post No. 1 - "How many times can I go back to Stock on my re200". This thread has moved into dangerous waters. Can we close this - and just simply ask the OP to make a new thread for any [relevant - as related to OpenWrt] subsequent inquires?
Why are you mad at OpenWrt then!?!?
Even if its plainly obvious for this device and clear from the OEM documentation, nonetheless this wiki tag:
should be added to this section:
@Kcajminer2312 can you list out the exact steps, files and commands you took when the device was bricked, so the documentation can be checked and improved. When using unmodified OpenWrt factory and sysupgrade images, it should normally not be possible to brick.
1 Like
Why are you mad at OpenWrt then!?!?
Because the docs say you can recover from a bad flash, no mention of serial
And we've now learned this device has AC power on the inside. This explains why it would be sealed like that.
I knew it has AC power it plugs directly into the wall
This thread has moved into dangerous waters.
its only what we was posting about in the first place
@ frollic had no problem with it
I said the network cable got disconnected
my re305 uses AC power and has screws in the back
And also if I use the VCC pin of the serial, then I will not be exposed to the high voltage anyway
I know that, because it's 3.3 V DC. that's been discussed too. You have to Safely open it. You seem to be using screwdrivers and not yet done so.
I'm not sure if we're having a language issue if you're just irate.
I was told not to connect VCC
so all that about high voltage for nothing
OK...good luck.
???
Again, I caution:
connect it to the PCB, as in the photos in the wiki.
remember RX goes to TX, and vice versa. connect GND as well, but not Vcc.
Again, good luck...I don't know if you're asking me, or telling me.
So I'll go.
I am proving a point
I have no clue what point you're tying to prove except you don't know AC from DC electricity.
You seemed silly to me saying VCC, then you quote it too. If you understand the warnings being given to you - then OK. Proceed if you're comfortable. I'm not debating. I'm trying to make sure you don't fry yourself or your nether regions.
Others can respond, but I personally think you're missing what's being explained - especially when you keep asking us how to open it and you've been poking at it with a screwdriver.
you don't know AC from DC electricity.
Where did I say that
I understand perfectly
Thats not the point anyway low and high voltage is
you could have high voltage DC and low voltage AC
AC isn't always high voltage but in this case it is