Bricked EAP225-Wall Trying to Flash Back to Original Firmware

I've been using an EAP225 with OpenWrt for the past few months with no issues up until about a month ago when I started getting lag in games and random disconnections on my Mac. I decided to try and flash back to stock firmware and I stupidly didn't check for a guide or anything.

After flashing the EAP doesn't transmit a SSID and connecting directly via Ethernet doesn't work either. My Mac doesn't find a router IP and when I assign it on my own trying to connect to it doesn't work.

The reset button on the device doesn't do anything, the green light just stays on. And restarting just makes it show orange for about a second before it goes straight back to green.

I tried to look up my issue but it seems no one else was having the exact issue I was having, and I don't understand half the things people were recommending. I realize it was dumb of me to install openwrt without being 100% sure I knew what I was doing, this is definitely a humbling experience.

Any advice is appreciated.

probably need to set up a serial connection to the device.

Is there a guide I can follow anywhere? The only ones I could find are for the outdoor version

you probably need to open it up, since there aren't any pics at
once you've done it, we can probably help you further.

you'll also need a USB TTL device, to connect to the EAP.

Would this work fine?

I had to delete my last msg cause I noticed that one wouldn't ship to my location. Sorry if you got double notifs

it should work, even though probably not needed, you might want to consider a USB TTL also supporting 1.8v.

making it more future proof.

Would this be good?
While looking I noticed each model also has a different chip like PL2303GC, FT232RL, CH340C, ect. Does it matter which one?

Thank you for the help

The one in the link, is the one I've got, but mine came with some additional cables.

I've only had issues once, it didn't work very well with the ZTE MF286R.
If you want to play it safe, the 2303 is probably the best choice.

Alright, I've got this one in cart for now.
Would the 6 pin DuPont cable be enough do you think?

I'll get some pictures of the eap225 motherboard and upload in the meantime while i wait for it to arrive

you only need three wires, and what kind of cable you need, really depends on the connector on the PCB side, and if you want to solder pins on the PCB, unless already presoldered.

Here's the pictures of the PCB. I don't mind soldering if needed.

I can't see any obvious place, where the serial console would be accessible :frowning:

ohh :sob: well I'm glad to know before i ordered the adapter at least.

Is there anything specific I could double check for that maybe I didn't get on camera? The metal covers seem to be on there tight, but is there possibility of anything under there?

Usually the connector's four holes in the PCB, holes you'd see from the back too,
unfortunately I can't see any of those.

They could be pads, if that's the case, they could be under the metal covers.

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@yeahbuddy It's probably J4: Anyone working on TP-Link EAP225? - #17 by blinkstar88


I think that's it. The USB adapter should arrive tomorrow and I'll update this post then :slight_smile:

Thank you both for the help.

Lets check the FCC database :smiley:
Its afaic see in the upper left corner under CE/FC 9cm/10cm

edit: that board seems different from the one in the photo :confused:

The serial is J4. Number 1 is the one with mark. 1,2 is tx and rx. Number 3 is ground. Pin Tx and rx disable with unpopulated R225 and R237, just short this resistor will fix the problem. Pin 4 is Vcc with unpopulated coupling capacitor C817.

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Well lets wait on @yeahbuddy to bring his device back from the dead :innocent:

Alright, the adapters in. I soldered everything. I'm guessing Rx and Tx plug into the RXD and TXD ports on the adapter? It's probably an obvious answer, just want to make sure because of the missing D.