The System -> Software panel now lists luci-app-upnp as version git-22.250.64651-a61c041 and miniupnpd-nftables as version 2022-08-31-68c8ec50-1. (The previous versions were git-20.332.74200-03c77da and 2.2.3-4.) The dates and commit IDs don't seem to match the GitHub PRs that Jow did, but I suspect they're being pulled from a different system that the Software system is talking to?
In any case, I just tested these new versions, and uPnP seems to be working correctly now. The Services -> UPnP panel shows the redirects:
and the services are visible outside the local network.
For other folks who want to test this, I recommend uninstalling the luci-app-upnp package and dependencies, deleting /etc/config/upnpd and /var/run/miniupnpd.leases, and then reinstalling the package. This will ensure a clean install without any leftover bits.
I'll leave it up to Jow or other OpenWRT folks to close out this issue, and thanks again for the quick response.
The new packages seem to work, but are the dependencies correct? I just installed luci-app-upnp for the first time, and got miniupnpd-iptables as the dependency. But a working install for 22.03 requires miniupnpd-nftables, is that correct?
Manually installing miniupnpd-nftables seems to work for me (at the very least logread doesn't show miniupnpd exiting immediately).