Unifi AP AC LR "fwupdate.real" stuck?

Installing and Using OpenWrt
1

Hi,

I’m installing OpenWRT 24.01.03 on a Unifi AP LR following the instructions here: https://openwrt.org/toh/ubiquiti/unifi_ap#installation

I uploaded the 24.10.3 binary (NOT the .2, which https://openwrt.org/toh/ubiquiti/common#openwrt_versions_to_avoid warns to avoid) onto the AP after factory resetting it, then did:

UAP-AC-LR-BZ.5.43.36# cp openwrt-24.10.3-ath79-generic-ubnt_unifi-ap-lr-squashfs-factory.bin fwupdate.bin
UAP-AC-LR-BZ.5.43.36# fwupdate.real -m openwrt-ar71xx-generic-ubnt-unifi-squashfs-factory.bin -d

but then it just sits there - no output, no exit for a very long time (it’s been over 10 minutes now when I write this).

I also tried passing it fwupdate.bin as the -m parameter but I get the same results.

So far, I failed to find any more instructions about the fwupdate.real command line (I know it’s a symlink to ubntbox but I can’t find any info about this one either).

Should I give it more time or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.

2

I since then also tried:

UAP-AC-LR-BZ.5.43.36# nohup syswrapper.sh upgrade2
nohup: appending output to nohup.out

But I get the same results - it just sits there forever.

3

These are before the bootloader TFTP recovery started requiring signed firmware, so it is possible to tftp put the factory OpenWrt file. That is a simple way to install.

And if you have really old stock firmware which also doesn't check signature, the factory file can be installed from the web interface. At the stock CLI, I think the command is just fwupdate -m with no file name. The file must be /tmp/fwupdate.bin

4

Thanks for your response.

I managed to factory-reset then follow OpenWrt installation on BZ boards to downgrade the Ubiquity firmware to BZ.qca956x.v3.7.58.6385.170508.0957.bin and install OpenWRT openwrt-24.10.3-ath79-generic-ubnt_unifi-ap-lr-squashfs-factory.bin from there.

A reboot of the AP after that, though, brings it up to steady white light but it doesn’t respond on 192.168.1.1 as I would expect from following Log into your router running OpenWrt

I connected it directly to my Linux server and configured the address 192.168.1.10 statically on the same server Ethernet port through which I could access the AP before the switch to OpenWRT.

Have I bricked it?

EDIT: To answer @mk24 ‘s original suggestion to use TFTP boot - I (think, based on tcpdump) that I managed to get the device into TFTP recovery mode but the tftp put kept timing out at different stages of upload. I then gave up on it and continued with the steps above.

5

It's very hard to brick a unifi access point.
Have you got serial access?

6

What do you mean by “serial access”? The device only has an ethernet port and I can connect it directly to my Linux box. However, nmap doesn’t find anything on the 192.168.1.0/24 network except the Linux box itself.

EDIT: are you referring to this? https://openwrt.org/toh/ubiquiti/unifi_ap#serial I never opened the box.

I ordered a USB-to-TTL cable and plan to follow https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+open+a+Ubiquiti+UniFi+AP+AC+Lite/158341 to open it, hopefully the LR instructions are identical (I didn’t find specific instructions for the LR).

7

This is not an UAP-LR.

Please update the topic and make sure you are using the correct images and instructions for the device you have. You may know what you are doing, but you will receive very confused tips and comments if you mix up such things. Details are important

8

Oh bummer. Thanks for the correction. I don’t see a way to change the subject.

9

Yeah I missed that you have a completely different generation there.

For later Ubiquiti that is not glued shut, I just open the case and use serial right off. It is a much faster install than trying to circumvent the signature checks.

10

Does this topic need to be changed? If yes, to what?

11

been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

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12

Thanks. By “For later Ubiquiti”, are you referring to the one I have (UAP-AC-LR-BZ.5.43.36)?

13

Today I received the iFixit prying tool and opened the AP (the serial-to-USB cable is still enroute).

I can’t identify the serial port on this. Also, I didn’t find information on the web. Could it be that it doesn’t have any?

PXL_20251007_230504271
PXL_20251007_2305042711920×1853 213 KB

14

There are two connectors shown in your picture, but the pin headers are not mounted. This is exactly the same as the other uap ac variants. See wiki docs.

Unfortunately the docs doesn't say which of the two is the correct one for the LR so you'll just have to try. My guess would be the top one based on the proximity to the soc and comparing to the lite. It also looks like the easiest one to use

15

Thank you.

From what I've managed to find on the Wiki and around the web, it looks like I’ll have to reapply the missing headers. This is getting beyond my equipment or skills.

I think it’ll be easier to purchase a new AP to run OpenWRT on.

16

sure, but where’s the fun in that? :smiley:

You don’t need to solder a header for a one time rescue/install. You just need to find some way to keep three wires in place in their respective holes for as long as the operation takes. The connection does not need to be very sturdy as long as you don’t throw the AP around while you’re using it. There is no harm if a wire should come loose. Just power off, reattach the wire and retry.

A common trick is to use a toothpick to lock the wires in the holes. It’s also possible to use tape to hold the wires in place. Or your hand if you are able to keep it steady while typing with the other hand (I find this impossible myself…)

Here’s a picture of such a temporary connection on another device:

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17

Get a 3 pin header strip and plug the wires from the converter into the top of the pins. Then place the short end of the pins into the holes in the board and devise some way (e.g. tape) to hold the wires pulled to the side so the pins tilt and touch the sides of the holes.

You can remove a header strip from a junk board by melting the solder from the bottom with any suitable heat source (heat gun, torch, stove eye) then pull it out with pliers. Not really a soldering skill needed.

18

Thank you.

I appreciate that there is satisfaction in tinkering with these things and indeed I loved it when things just worked when I installed the OpenWRT on the ABR-4500 and my other Unifi AC AP Lite, but I just need this to work now and have other hobbies to spend my time on.

For now, I ordered a Cuddy M3000 to replace it, and in the meantime, I’ll try to follow your (and @mk24 ‘s) tips to fix the Unifi.

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