Thanks @georg . I sure did that, at the time.
Thanks @egc for the info regarding Tailscale alternatives. Will definitely investigate this in the middle term. Tailscale is so useful and makes this reachable for my limited skillset, but the more my infrastructure is free from 3rd parties, the better.
root@Meraki_MR18:~# sysctl net.ipv4.ip_forward
net.ipv4.ip_forward = 1
So I guess that yes, IP forwarding is on.
Below is my original problem, if any other poor soul has the same problem.
TL;DR: couldn’t ping my LAN devices from a remote Tailscale member.
Seems like SNAT was off (while it should be on by default).
Entering
tailscale set --snat-subnet-routes=true
fixed the thing for me. 
_________________________________
So here was my problem:
My subnet router (meraki-mr18, running OpenWRT), runs Tailscale and advertises the LAN 192.168.100.0/24.
My PC (portable17) runs Tailscale with subnet routing from another LAN. When it tries to connect, via Tailscale, to machines inside 192.168.100.0/24 (for example, 192.168.100.250, which is running piCorePlayer), Tailscale subnet routing works partially: ping and HTTP requests from portable17 to the Tailscale IPs are successful, but when trying to reach 192.168.100.0/24 IPs directly, only the meraki-mr18 responds. Other LAN devices do not respond.
Devices on 192.168.100.0/24 have their gateway set to the ISP box (192.168.100.254), not to the subnet router meraki-mr18. When my PC sends requests to PiCorePlayer (192.168.100.250) via Tailscale subnet routing, the initial packets arrive, but the replies from 192.168.100.250 use the default gateway (ISP box), and never reach the remote device:
tc@piCorePlayer:~$ traceroute 100.122.232.146
traceroute to 100.122.232.146 (100.122.232.146), 30 hops max, 46 byte packets
1 livebox.home (192.168.100.254) 2.756 ms 2.895 ms 2.994 ms
So I have 2 questions:
-
Shouldn’t the Tailscale client running on PiCorePlayer (192.168.100.250) automatically route responses correctly to requests from other Tailnet devices, regardless of their LAN?
-
How can a remote device on the same Tailnet connect to the ISP box (192.168.100.254), if it isn’t possible to add custom routes on that device? I thought subnet routing was the magical solution for this kind of need (machines on the LAN not able to run Tailscale).