Hi Community. How is going there?
Well I'm here becasue I would like to know what router devices you recommend with pin male included to do easy the connection with a USB-TTL converter. I don't want to solder anymore. I just want to plug and unplug 
I would prefer TP-LINK brand but if you recommed another one brand just tell me
Thanks in advance
I'm not aware of any SOHO, all-in-one, wireless router that has an external serial connection, not to mention one that is compatible with TTL levels. It's a liability for a commercial vendor to have to support an interface that can easily brick a router that isn't needed for how they intend for users to use their devices. TP-Link, in some cases, fails to populate essential components on their PCBs to remove "connect-and-go" serial.
Some of the "hacker-friendly" units, such as the https://docs.gl-inet.com/en/2/hardware/mt300n-v2/, have pre-populated headers, but they are not RS232 or TTL compatible. Connecting a DB-9 adapter or any other TTL- or RS232-level adapter will likely fry the device. This includes various "hacker" USB-to-serial adapters that have not been modified for 3.3 V logic levels as most I have seen ship configured for 5 V logic.
Edit: As a side note, "male" is typically DTE and, when connecting from a computer, the device on the other end is typically expected to be DCE, which is typically a female DB-9. A null-modem cable or adapter is typically required to connect two pieces of DTE together.
Not to mention it saves a few cents on parts and labour to not populate a header. When you're producing millions of devices, the money saved soon adds up to another Porsche for the CEO.
Since we are on side notes already, if you only want to do a one-time switch to OpenWrt you usually don't have to go all-out and completely fit a through-hole pin header (which is especially tedious if you have to open up the through-holes first). Since ideally you'll only need it once and only for a few minutes, you can usually get away by treating the through-hole as an SMD solder point and just superficially "tagging" on a pin header. I found right-angle or SMD pin headers to be particularly useful for that, but the most convenient way may be small-gauge single-core wire, which is super easy to tag on and remove afterwards.
If there are empty holes you can make temporary contact with a row of pins pushed through the holes then tilted to the side.