Howdy folks,
trying to find the installation instructions to be able to install onto a router, your systems say that you have the image for it but there is nothing to say how to do it.
The Router is an Optus Sagemcom 3864V3 HP.
Anyone think they would be able to help please?
I don't see any indication that this specific model is supported. Can you tell us where you are seeing that?
There is the 3864OP model, but that is almost certainly different than the one you have. Installation instructions are included in the device page, but unless the v3 HP model is identical to the OP version, attempting to install an OpenWrt image for another device will brick your device. (and as a side note, be sure to see the warnings and what's not working parts of the page.)
It should be fine, it is the Optus version...
Keeps telling me the image is invalid thoguh when I try to do a software update using it.
So I thank you for the instructions, tells me that there a lot more involved with the overwriting than I had thoguht. So now I need a USB to Serial converter...
You should only proceed if you can verify that the two versions are identical at the circuit level. Either that, or be prepared for the risk that this device will be permanently bricked.
Also, take note of the performance and functionality info on the page I linked. Openwrt just barely works on the device - a lot of stuff doesn’t work or doesn’t perform well. Keep that all in mind before you flash the unit.
I have 2...
Would it be better to fix it so that it will boot to the USB drive so that I could do whatever is needed to make it work properly then have a fully working version that could then even upload for checking by you?
If you’re prepared to invest your time in many months of software development, sure.
But to be clear, the Broadcom chipset (at least in the OP version) is probably the real blocker and would be a dead end in terms of development.
get a different device? Definitely…
As long as the device can use the LAN functionality, that's all it needs to have.
That way I can sit it at the NTD and have another network stup down there for things.
Then have it just forward traffic according to the rules to the main box. So it's not trying to do anything fancy. So it shuold be fine. I mean it is an old router after all.
I don't mind if it is no longer fully usable, I'm just tryign to get it to do things properly, and havin gto solder onto it and do this and that is quite crazy...
I can't even just install linux on it.
BCM is fine to use I thought. Why is it a "blocker" and a "dead end"?
What device would be better and easier and be just as basic?
To be clear, unless the v3 is actually the exact same things as the OP version, your v3 may do nothing at all if you instal OpenWrt for the OP -- literally bricked. Dead.
Are you trying to use the device simply as a switch? Or do you want it to operate as a router?
"Fully usable" may be a matter of interpretation and what you actually expect it to do. We're warning that it may not be usable at all... but if you want to try, go ahead.
Well, no, of course not. OpenWrt is a Linux OS, but every one of these "all-in-one" devices requires a bespoke firmware image (and also require an OS with a very small footprint)... so you can't put a "big distro" on the device, and if you want to install OpenWrt or similar, you need the image to be consistent with the actual hardware in the system.
For wired use, Broadcom can be okay... for other stuff, no. The OP version of this box has very limited routing speeds (even wired), so I'm not sure if that would be considered 'fully functional' in your eyes. As a switch, it probably will be fine, though (again, assuming you don't brick the unit). Wifi, DSL, etc.... those will never work.
The reason Broadcom is considered a dead-end is that the performance with the vendor firmware is good (or at least as good as the hardware can get), but Broadcom never open-sourced the drivers for their wireless/dsl stuff (and also routing acceleration), so that puts a serious damper on performance and usability when using FOSS firmware. As such, the poor performance will never be improved and there is a lot of stuff that just doesn't work at all... thus no reason to put effort into adding support for additional Broadcom based devices, and no ability to improve what exists now.
That said.. can you describe your actual goals and your network topology? That might get you further towards a good solution than simply asking if you can install OpenWrt on your device.
Look for a model that is available at your site and check https://openwrt.org/toh/start
It just needs to handle gigabit speeds, nothing fancy...
Need it to allow for incomming to be separated from 3 of the LAN ports.
Need the connections incomming to redirect to the main OpenWRT box.
The traffic from main box to the other network tht is down stairs could be handled by WiFi if available, or else just have it set as redirected traffic to the other ports there via a VPN from another device there (another OP one on the other ports).. Or something like that... Just makes life easier.
NIC 3 can be set as the VPN connection to downstairs device and then that conencts to the local NIC 1 Network via the HUB that I have things connected into in the office area.
Downstairs I just want a separate network down there to handle the downstairs networking. So there will be a networking device down there on the VPN to upstairs. that way I can have the 4 WiFi devices down ther eto handle the devices, as well as have cabled networking as well where needed.
So, nothing fancy...
As I got these routers for free, I really don't mind if they break.
If they work, then YAY!!! And you have more information for the builds.
If they both break, as well as the D-Links, then I will have to just buy another mini PC that can do it all.
Anyone know what I actually need to use to be able to solder on to these boards? I'mn using good solder but it isn't flowing, even though it is supposed to have flux in it.
If they used high temp tin to fill the holes, I'd drill them instead.
Drilling solder filled holes is an option (I have done it in the past), but needs to be done very carefully (tolerances to inner board layers may be quite tight), so small drill, steady hands.
Additional flux is always advisable.
Thanks for the info.
My solder does have flux in it, but didn't seem to make a difference.
Tip is directly heated yes.
Good solder, unsure what "good" means... This is just the solder tha tI had on hand.
But I think that the flux may not have been working properly from the solder.
I used some solder paste that I have had sitting around for over 2 years, and it managed to attach to things better. It attached to the rings easily enough, so I managed to get that on there then use my other solder on it to get the pins working.
What solder would you recomend as being the best solder to get for general soldering tasks for wires and pins and more? I still haven't found any good stuff any more.. The one I used to use was from the early 1990s. Had bought plenty back then. Lost it in one of my moves though.
One problem is that it doesn't tell you how to connect to the TFTP server to be able to get it to boot the image. I mean I found the admin passwords but they don't work for the CEF either.
So that's where I'm at now... Tryign to get access to the CEF...
Any thoughts on that?
- Connect any of the router LAN ports to your PC.
that's not really what the wiki page says - CFE is password less, mgmt console needs password.
Connect to any lan port.. that doesn't do anything for the PC other than allow the PC to talk to the router over ETH, but there is no ETH until the system boots, so it can't be configured as far as I know. Because I can't log in to the CFE.
I'll try a few more times and see what happens, might get lucky and it won't ask for the password at some point.
it's not expected to do anything else.
that's also expected, and the reason why you have to set a static IP (as descibed in the wiki).
post the complete boot sequence, use the </> button when you paste it.