Solved by this thread:
Commented out these lines in mt7628an_hilink_hlk-7628n.dts file
gpio {
mtk,group = "i2c";
mtk,function = "gpio";
};
And now dmesg shows:
root@GateOpenerTEST:~# dmesg | grep i2c
[ 88.969126] i2c_dev: i2c /dev entries driver
[ 88.994647] i2c-mt7621 10000900.i2c: clock 100 kHz
I also had hardware connections missing. The MCP23017 needs +3.3v to RESET pin.