Just bought the DGS-1210-10P off eBay, it's now bricked after trying to flash OpenWRT onto it. The guide should state next time that you should NOT switch back to image2 after you flash image1. I rebooted back into image1 and was still in the OEM gateway, so I decided to reboot back into image2 because I thought it didn't flash correctly, and now it's bricked. I believe all I had to do was change my IP to 192.168.1.1, but I didn't do that. I was still using my static 10.90.90.90. Please update the guide so people can avoid doing this in the future.
If there is anyone who has experience disassembling one of these, I would heavily appreciate if you can post how to do it or link me to a guide. Although, I'm pretty sure there's a good chance I could get electrocuted, I don't know if it's worth fixing to be honest.
How do I hook up a serial console? Also, it was F1 revision on f/w version 6.10.007. The switch just keeps rebooting. I saw on one of the documents that it said I could possibly get electrocuted
This page is not helpful, it says that a lot of the information is outdated. And I don't have any soldering experience at all. This really freaking sucks...
I'm planning to learn how to solder, but this situation should not have occurred. The guide needs an update. The only reason my device got bricked is that the guide lacked information about whether I could boot from image2 still. I attempted to boot into image2 because I assumed the flash was unsuccessful. This assumption was based on the fact that, even after I had flashed image1 with OpenWRT, it still booted me into the OEM firmware on image1.
I'm not completely sure what you did, but: OpenWrt only ever touches image1 (as long as you really flash it to this slot), image 2 is completely untouched. The proper way back to stock is forcing a boot from image 2. This only works, of course, if the user ever flashed a working stock image to image 2 (IIRC, it's empty by default).
If you flashed OpenWrt to image 2 then it won't boot because it doesn't find its rootfs.
As @frollic already pointed it, there is no need to solder. Just use a pin header, tilt it so that all pins make contact and you're good to go. Or use a rubber band to hold it in place. Or be a bit creative here. I never solder the headers unless I know I will have to use them on a regular basis.
The section "Serial Console" on the wiki page even contains a picture with a pin header.
Yes, you can. If you don't feel comfortable working with the case removed, then ask someone for help. You will have to power up the switch with the cover removed and the serial console cable connected (actually, you could close the cover and route the cables outside before powering it up).
I flashed it to image1 when I was booted into image2. After it was done flashing, it said something like "flash successful", so I rebooted into image1 and realized I was still somehow using the OEM firmware.
Since I assumed the flash hadn't actually succeeded, I decided to boot back into image2 to reflash image1, but ever since I did that, it's just been stuck in a boot loop. I don't really feel comfortable taking it apart, I don't want to get hurt.
Even if you repeat it again, it won't change the fact that OpenWrt never touches image 2 (unless you flashed it there). Or image 2 was empty ever since because you never flashed a valid image there.
Anyway, I'm sure you will find someone who can help you reviving it. If you don't know anybody sufficiently skilled, you might want to ask here for help, maybe you can even ship it to someone living near you.
To connect to serial without soldering you could purchase 2.54mm Pin Pitch PCB Clip Clamp. You'll likely want a 4-pin 2.54mm version. However some devices have 2.0mm spacing, so I have both.