OpenWrt Forum Archive

Topic: Linksys WRT350N v2

The content of this topic has been archived on 11 Apr 2018. There are no obvious gaps in this topic, but there may still be some posts missing at the end.

I've just bought a Linksys WRT350N v2 (mainly for the gigabit switch it has). I cracked it open, and it has a Atheros AR5008 for the wireless (I can see the AR5416 chip on it). The CPU is a 500MHz Arm, the Marvell Orion 88F5181 as pictured here which is also used in the airport extreme and has had Linux ported to it for the D-Link DNS-323. The RAM is 16MB 200MHz SDRAM and the flash is Samsung k8d6316utm 8MB (64Mbit).

How can I help get OpenWRT supported on this device?

Anyone knows where are located jtag pins on the board ?

The JTAG pins are the 2x10 set of pads labelled J4, conforming to the 20pin ARM JTAG standard. There's more discussion at http://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?id=12358 - the next step is creating a wrt350n-setup.c file.

Hello. The 2x10 ARM JTAG connector on the wrt350n-v2 board doesn't seem to be working, I can't even get the JTAG chain scan. Does anyone have any idea if the linksys disabled it in this model, and how could I bring it back to life? I've got a bricked router I would really like to fix...

We have had success getting the JTAG port on the wrt350n v2 to work by swapping the TMS and TDI lines -- the CPU (the only device in the scan chain) identifies itself, and we were able to single-step it using OpenOCD and make a dump of the flash memory.

I'm wondering whether they swapped the TMS and TDI lines as some kind of anti-hacking measure, or whether they just screwed up on the board layout.

I have a WRT350N v1 that's bricked (thanks to the snapshots, I don't think they include a 2.6 driver for the switch), at least, it has Linux in it but the switch doesn't respond to pings on 192.168.1.1 and the LEDs that light up don't match which port I plug Ethernet into, so I need to open this to get to the serial port / JTAG... can you please post instructions on how to open it up, I've managed to pry the front of the bottom silver plate and one side of the top silver plate away but don't wanna just keep pulling at the wrong place and break the case.

Jamey, there are several Tamper-Resistant Torx screws you need to remove.

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